DIY Workbench: 7 Simple Steps

by
posted on March 6, 2022
** When you buy products through the links on our site, we may earn a commission that supports NRA's mission to protect, preserve and defend the Second Amendment. **
stylized drawing shooting bench tools rifle gun wood targets tools

If you do any kind of work on your guns, you need an appropriate place to do it. The bench outlined here has a very smooth top that makes it easy to pick up and manipulate small pieces. A Columbia woodworking vise on one end and a bench vise on the opposite provide a means of holding a variety of parts and guns. Slots in one end of the bench top hold cleaning rods for easy access, and a sturdy shelf on the bottom holds large items.

rendering drawing image man workshop saw bandsaw tools wood cutting

 

Many gunsmithing chores require a bench that is sturdy and won’t rock or move when doing vise work. This bench uses doubled 2"x4" legs, which makes it ideal for mounting a reloading press and supplies. It’s made from common, readily available materials and is fairly easy to build. In fact, you can build it with little more than a portable circular saw, saber saw or hand saw, carpenter’s square, tape measure, and cordless drill/driver with Phillips screw bits and a countersinking drill bit. If you’re somewhat handy, you can probably finish this project in a weekend.

drawing wood corner placement diagram building

 

STEP 1

The first step is to cut the inside 2"x4" legs (A). Note the bench shown is designed with a 36" working height, typical for a kitchen counter. Depending on your stature and whether you prefer to stand or sit while working, you may wish to raise or lower this dimension. Cut a 1 1⁄2"x3 1⁄2" notch in the top edge of each of the legs to accept the front and back top supports.
(See Corner Detail drawing.)

drawing rendering man workbench tools measuring wood project lumber bench construction

 

STEP 2

Cut the front and back top supports (B) to length. Fasten the top supports to the front and back of the inside legs with their ends down in the notches. Use 2 1⁄2" self-starting wood screws, countersinking them below the wood surface. Use a combination countersink drill bit to pre-drill all holes. Not only does this set the screw heads below the surface, it also prevents the ends of the wood from splitting when driving screws. Make sure the assembly is square by holding a carpenter’s square against the edge while driving the screws in place.

rendering drawing of man at workbench with drill wood square building construction

 

STEP 3

With both front and back inside leg assemblies constructed, stand them upside down on a smooth, flat surface. Cut the top-end supports (C) and then fasten them in place, again making sure the assembly is square. Cut the back shelf support (D) and fasten it in place between the two back legs with 3" screws driven in from the outside of the inside legs. Stand the assembly upright on a smooth, flat surface and make sure it sits squarely and doesn’t rock. Then cut and fasten the lower end/shelf supports (E) to the outside of the inside legs as well. Note: these must be at the same location on the legs as the back shelf support.

rendering image of workbench wood drawing schematic reference building construction how to

 

STEP 4

Cut the front shelf support (F) and fasten it in place between the lower end/shelf supports. The legs are strengthened by adding 2"x 4" cleats to the outside of the inside legs. Cut the bottom short cleats (G), drill starting holes using the countersink bit and fasten them in place below the lower end/shelf supports. Cut the upper leg cleats (H) to length and fasten them in place in the same manner. If you are installing a woodworking vise you will need to notch around the vise screws in the front support (B) and add an additional support piece. If you wish to paint the frame now is a good time to do so as you can easily get to all surfaces.

STEP 5

Cut the shelf board (I) to size from medium density fiberboard (MDF) or if you prefer, cut from solid-faced plywood. The MDF provides a much stronger, smoother, more easily cleaned surface. The best method of cutting this heavy material is to lay it on a pair of sawhorses or other flat surface, lay a couple of scrap pieces beneath the board and set a portable circular saw to cut about 1/8" below the wood surface. Use a straight edge to mark the cut, then cut with a portable electric circular saw. Note the back corners will have to be cut to fit around the back legs. Mark these recesses with a square, then cut with a saber saw or hand saw. Next, install the shelf board down on the front and back shelf supports and the lower end/shelf supports. Fasten in place with 1½" countersunk self-starting wood screws.

rendering image man drill workbench wood construction

 

STEP 6

Cut the top (J) in the same manner. If you are installing a wood vise, such as the one shown, you will need to notch for the vise threads to go through the front top support. The top will also have to be notched to fit around the back side of the wood vise and you should also add a support brace to the area. Make these cuts, then try-fit the vise and top before fastening the bench top securely in place. Note that the top protrudes 1" in front and back and 2" on each end. Position the top in place and fasten securely to the top supports with 1½" self-starting wood screws. Just lightly countersink them so they don’t leave a deep depression. If installing the metal-working vise, locate it in position and mark the anchor holes. Note the front holes are located directly over the front top support. Anchor the front of the vise with 3/8"x3" lag screws. Anchor the rear holes to the top with 3/8"x2" carriage bolts and nuts.

rendering drawing of man at workbench circular saw cutting wood MDF

 

STEP 7

The final step is to cut the notches to accept the cleaning rods. Determine the diameter of your rods and bore a hole for each rod down through the overhanging lip of the bench top near the outside edge of the top support. Then use the square to mark a cut line on either side of the hole out to the top edge. Make these cuts with a saber or hand saw. If you wish, you can add a clear finish to the MDF top and shelf board. Now it’s time to really do some cleaning on that rifle or shotgun you’ve been neglecting.

workbench construction drill wood building square ruler

 

 

Latest

Armscor Tm22 S 18 Gotw F
Armscor Tm22 S 18 Gotw F

Gun Of The Week: Armscor TM22-S-18

We're on the range in this video to get a closer look at an affordable plinker imported by Armscor. Whether you’re training on a budget or just want a rimfire for plinking, the TM22 is a proven platform worth investigating.

The Armed Citizen® Aug. 22, 2025

Read today's "The Armed Citizen" entry for real stories of law-abiding citizens, past and present, who used their firearms to save lives.

Winter Warrior: The Finnish Lahti-Saloranta M/26 LMG

A little-known light machine gun from the inter-war era, the Finnish Lahti-Saloranta M/26 garnered a poor reputation during its service in World War II, but a closer look and some context reveals how innovative it was for its time.

Federal Ammunition Honored By National 4-H Shooting Sports

Federal Ammunition was recently honored with the 2025 4-H Shooting Sports Pioneer Award, which recognizes individuals or companies that have made significant contributions to the 4-H Shooting Sports program at a national level.

I Have This Old Gun: Polish Vis 35 Radom

One of the lesser-known designs from the 1930s, the Vis 35 Radom is widely considered to be one of the best of the pre-World War II handguns.

Rifleman Q&A: Colt 1860 12-Notch Conversion

"At a gun show, I saw a Colt 1860 Army Richards Conversion with 12 cylinder notches instead of the usual six. The dealer was not sure whether this was original to the gun. Were these extra notches a factory variation or just some frontier gunsmith’s backroom project?"

Interests



Get the best of American Rifleman delivered to your inbox.