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Build Your Own AR from Scratch (Page 2)

The AR-style rifle’s modular design allows nearly anyone to build a perfectly personalized gun from the ground up. All it takes is the right components, a few specialized tools and some friendly advice from the experts. So if you see an AR in your future, why not envision, then build, one that exactly suits your needs?

DPMS Internals
Both upper and lower receivers, if ordered as stripped components, require the addition of numerous small parts, including tiny roll pins, detents and springs, usually sold as “parts kits” or “completion kits.” These were and continue to be some of items hardest-hit by the insatiable nationwide demand for AR rifles, parts and accessories. Once Brownells informed me by e-mail that they were once again available, I chose to keep things simple and ordered their polybagged kits as supplied to them by DPMS, which has a long history of providing mil-spec AR components to the firearm industry. My thinking was that securing things in that manner would help move the project along, allowing for selective upgrading, such as with an adjustable trigger, when my needs and additional funds became available. For the Upper Receiver Parts Kit, Mid-Length ($59) that included the ejection port cover and forward assist assemblies, the gas tube and other small parts. For the Lower Parts Kit ($60) it included the trigger and safety selector components. Other required assortments include the Buttstock Mounting Kit ($52) with buffer tube and buffer components. I also ordered a DPMS Bolt Carrier ($58) and Bolt ($45) because I knew they would be military-grade and because they were among the few available.

Magpul Furniture
Having begun as a manufacturer of flexible polymer magazine pulls designed to allow more rapid and sure magazine changes in combat, Magpul Industries has evolved into one of the largest producers of polymer AR magazines, stocks, fore-ends, sights, slings and more. Its Magpul Original Equipment, or MOE, components, as their name implies, are supplied on a host of factory rifles and have come to all but dominate the aftermarket for individuals seeking to build their own ARs. For this project, I chose the fixed MOE Rifle Stock ($70), which has smooth contours that afford a comfortable cheekweld along with multiple attachment points for push-button sling swivel cups and a ribbed rubber buttpad that hinges to allow storage of a cleaning rod and other supplies. I also chose the MOE + Grip ($24), with rubber overmolding, and the company’s signature AFG2 Angled Fore-Grip ($35), which, mounted fully to the rear of the fore-end’s lower Picatinny rail, presents a comfortable purchase point for the support hand for efficient use of the gun in close-range, dynamic scenarios yet still allows mounting of the bipod ahead of it. The choice of such components is important because of how they allow it to interface with the shooter. Magpul seems to have dialed-in ergonomic design, which means the shooter can remain comfortable and relaxed during extended or stressful sessions, resulting in more hits on the targets.

Sights, Optics & Mounts
I wanted a quality set of iron sights and decided to go with a barrel-mounted front unit for a little more sight radius and because it left the upper Picatinny rail clear for possible use with a scout-mounted scope. As with a rack-grade military AR, the base of the No. 41-BL Silhouette Folding Front Sight ($160) from A.R.M.S. I chose has that familiar triangular shape when raised and serves as the gas block and sling mounting point although I chose to address the latter by mounting a push-button-style sling point on the left Picatinny rail so as to prevent influencing the barrel through sling tension. I mounted an ARMS No. 40L-SP ($120) at the rear, and was pleased to see that its base contour neatly matched that of the upper receiver. Both units are made of steel and fold quickly, allowing an unobstructed view through the riflescope or other optics.

As to optics, there are myriad choices available for ARs, from small, non-magnifying reflex sights to large, high-magnification scopes, and a host of mounts and rings as well. Regardless of which type of optic is chosen, reasonable quality can mean that it and its attendant mounts and accessories might exceed the cost of the rifle itself. So before making a decision, consider such basics as: suitability to the type of shooting anticipated; compatibility with iron sights—e. g. the ability to ”co-witness”—rail mounting area requirements; and, of course, optical quality and price. I chose the VX-R Patrol 1.5-4 X 20 mm scope with FireDot Special Purpose Reticle ($580) from Leupold set in the company’s Mark 4 Tactical steel rings ($164) and mounted atop an Accucam Quick Detach Scout Length Mounting Base ($159) from GG&G mostly because I had them on hand. Given the capabilities of the rifle, greater magnification would certainly be in order. But the combination has proven to allow for quick yet precise aiming at close targets and yet turns in respectably small groups on paper at moderate distances as shown in the accompanying table.

Bits & Pieces
Sometimes the details on a project can make all the difference, and a handful of small components helped make this particular AR more suited to my personal preferences. One was the Ambidextrous Safety Selector ($60) from Battle Arms Development. Ordered as a kit with a variety of lever styles, it allows the user to select a favorite length and thickness to install on each side of the gun. Another drop-in worth its weight in gold is the Ambi-Catch ($90) by Norgon, LLC, which allows the magazine to be released by pressing in on the left side as well as preserving the primary release on the right.

Two other items that made a big difference in handling and configurability, respectively, are the Badger Ordnance (badgerordnance.com) Tactical Charging Handle ($100) and the company’s TRAMP bipod mount ($60). The former makes grasping and retracting the charging handle faster and less demanding of fine motor skills and the latter allows a QD-stud-mounted bipod, such as the ubiquitous and durable SL ($133) from Harris shown here, easy to lock onto and remove from the lower Picatinny rail with one hand—the key to both being skeletonized grasping “ears.” Finally, the CA556AR203 ($130) combination flash suppressor/sound suppressor interface from SureFire has a reasonably traditional appearance at the end but includes a long “skirt” that allows for easy fitting of a long bayonet or sound suppressor.

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15 Responses to Build Your Own AR from Scratch (Page 2)

Frank wrote:
November 20, 2013

I do not think this article speaks to the average gun enthusiast. Build your own AR for under $700.00 would be more realistic.

Gary Lorenz wrote:
November 03, 2013

I read with interest about this propject. By the time I finished ,well I felt like 'someone' with unlimited funds, and not much experiance fielded this ..'Monster' Over 2K and 12 lbs 5 oz !!!!! with an 18' tube . To his credit he did admit he like M14s. He ought to discover some of the advantages of an AR 15 . The whole article seemed like a project to spend alot of money and come up with ... a whale (not white one) but still. Gary

Jaycen wrote:
October 29, 2013

Check out Intacto Arms they are building custom AR15's that are immaculate. http://www.intactoarms.com/ As well you can grab parts from them.

Kevin wrote:
October 29, 2013

A.R.M.S. Owner has given money to at least one anti-gun politician and sues at others at the drop of the hat.

AMU_Vet wrote:
October 23, 2013

And BTW, its not as hard a thing to put one together custom, as I may have described below. As the author says, Brownells is a good start. You can buy a virtually complete upper from them, very close to your desired specs. Your local FFL dealer can get you a complete lower. Just slap them together. After that, a few custom features to sub out, such as stock, trigger group, or gas block, and your done. Finally, optics of your choice. Piece of cake, with only the slightest of mentoring from someone.

JIMMY CLINE wrote:
October 23, 2013

I HAVE PUT TOGETHER SEVERAL AR-15. R-GUNS HAS A GREAT SELECTION OF UPPERS, AND PALMEADOWS HAS THE BEST PRICES AND QUALITY ON LOWERS. ALL RAN FLAWSELY AND PERFECT.

AMU_Vet wrote:
October 22, 2013

Glen Zediker and Derrick Martin also have some very good books on the subject. Easy and enjoyable to read, also.

AMU_Vet wrote:
October 22, 2013

Reading below, it seems there is indeed a good point to be made here, to address the issue of interchangeability of parts in AR builds (thanks, RJB). And like Jim infers, you can fill a whole book on the topic, in fact several books, to have a full understanding. Reading up will save you a lot of headache, and re-work. I won't try to expound that here, but perhaps point out just a few basic things for beginners, to keep out of trouble and give a feel of what you'll need to know : 1) Jim is right. Other than slapping on a few external accessories, its a good idea to read up on the subject, and at the very least consult an experienced AR builder to mentor with. And you'll need the correct tools to do it. 2) Buy your barrel assembly and bolt complete, to assure proper chamber heasdspace from the factory. If not, have it locally checked with a go/no-go guage, to avoid unpleasant case separations or worse. In spite of good modern machine tolerances nowadays, you still need always check for proper headspace. 3) Shorty barrels are notorious for hard case extractions with max loads. Good idea to always buy an adjustable gas block or tube, to fine tune it when testing. If you don't know this, you'll wrongly blame the manufacturer for 'out of spec' parts, which is not the case. 4) When shopping for parts, always call first and ask the seller if its compatible with your brand of receiver. This is especially true of buffer tubes, barrel nuts, gas blocks, and trigger groups. They'll tell you the right ones to buy. 5) Order your barrel with the upgraded M4 barrel extension, to help avoid cycling problems. 6 ) Be aware of large vs small pin receivers. You may need adapter pins to match them up. Bushmaster is a good source for them. Same goes for buying trigger groups, which come in both pin types. It's an easy thing to order the wrong set because you didn't ask first. 7) Always buy factory matched complete trigger groups. Mix and match is just asking for trouble. You get what you pay for here. Most stock triggers don't have what it takes to let you shoot sub-moa groups. A good high end adjustable trigger is worth its weight in gold. It took a Guisselle trigger I installed for my friend below, to prove the gun could shoot sub-moa. I would have had a much harder time fighting a stock trigger to prove it. Sorry, that's all I have time for, there's lots more than this--hope this helps. Good luck, and yes its very rewarding, and great fun building your own custom gun.

Kwelz wrote:
October 22, 2013

I on the other hand have seen more problems with DPMS than any other company except maybe Olympic arms. Avoid the junk, buy quality. Make the Gun grabbers cry.

Al wrote:
October 22, 2013

I have completed 2 ar-15 in 5.56 and am currently building a 300aac and soon a 6.8spc both for hunting I absolutely love the modular approach of this rifle I have built a lower for each upper but if your on a budget you can have multiple uppers for one lower. Love the platform

RJB wrote:
October 22, 2013

After building several AR variants with parts from a number of different manufacturers, I have had no issues with DPMS parts. The fit has always been perfect with other mil-spec components.

Jim Macklin wrote:
October 22, 2013

MilSpec is OK, essential if you're selling to the Pentagon. But there are better barrel steels, better alloys and surface treatments. If all you want or need is a rifle that will shoot $2,000 worth of ammo while you have it you don't need MilSpec. If you want a gun that will shoot $20,000 worth of ammo and 70+ grain bullets, you might need MilSpec. You will want to know what parts are different, such as buffer tubes. I recommend anyone planning to build an AR [[]or even owns one, should get Patrick Sweeneys GUNSMITHING the AR.

AMU_Vet wrote:
October 21, 2013

I've bought 3 replacement bolts from them, no problems with their heat treatment or headspace tolerances. They matched right up to my milspec chamber. I attributed that to tight specs of modern CNC machine tolerances, which DPMS uses. I just accessorized a heavy stainless .308 panther for a friend, and it shot 3/4moa out of the box, at 600yds. I advised him not to ever sell it. Can't say I've had a problem with them at all, over the years.

CountryRock2001 wrote:
October 20, 2013

I would advise against using anything from DPMS. They are nowhere near milspec. There are much better parts available.

Sydney wrote:
October 15, 2013

You can also use the product gunstruction to prototype and check fitment etc http://www.ar15.com/gunstruction